Archive for the ‘Fashion’ Category

The Storied Objects of Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons

Friday, February 19th, 2010

By Michelle Cheung

Derrick Cruz of Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons

Derrick Cruz of Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons

“Like paradoxical black sheep and prodigal son” wrote Anatole Broyard in his autobiographical tale, “Kafka Was the Rage,” as he described the outcasts and rejects, who lived in Greenwich village after the Second World War. When Derrick Cruz read these words more than five years ago, he knew right away that it would help name and shape the story for his accessories brand.  Broyard’s words captured Cruz’s repatriation to New York as an adult.  “Like paradoxical black sheep and prodigal sons,” he said, “we all come here [to New York] kind of outcasts, being rejected, seeking something new, seeking redemption of some sort. When I saw that line, I knew that was going to be the name and, aesthetically, it became more about archetypes that, in my head, were both wise and stubborn at the same time.” (more…)

Cultural Instigator Alexander McQueen Found Dead

Thursday, February 11th, 2010
"Alexander McQueen" by David LaChapelle

"Alexander McQueen" by David LaChapelle

Fashion visionary Lee McQueen, creative director and founder of the Alexander McQueen label, was found dead in his home in London Thursday morning. The former creative director of the famous House of Givenchy and Gucci was mourned in the Lincoln Center Tents during the first day of Spring 2010’s Fashion Week. (more…)

Thierry Lasry brings fun and function back into eyewear

Monday, November 16th, 2009
Thierry Lasry showing his FW09 collection at Hong Kong's Harvey Nichols

Thierry Lasry showing his FW09 collection at Hong Kong's Harvey Nichols

By Michelle Cheung

Meeting Thierry Lasry at the swanky Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong last week, I was not a bit surprised by what I saw and who I met. A handsome and energetic Frenchman wearing a stylish vested shirt matched with a pair of limited edition multicolored sneakers, Thierry gave off more than an air of sophistication and youthful swank, a trait that his eyewear designs share. Every piece of his Fall/Winter 2009 Collection has his name—his brand—written all over it. Untainted by design assistants (he designs all his pieces himself), Lasry is a one-man creative show that possesses the full package of an eyewear designer, perhaps an anomaly in the lorgnette world these days. The brand is his; the patterned acetates are his; the functional form is his; the aesthetic design is, again, his. Lasry’s collection can easily fit in to any art gallery or modern art museum in New York, Paris, Tokyo, or London. (more…)

Backstage Dior: Ten Years Behind the Scenes with Roxanne Lowit

Friday, October 23rd, 2009

By JRS

Roxanne Lowit's Backstage Dior, available from teNeues November 1, 2009

Roxanne Lowit's Backstage Dior, available from teNeues November 1, 2009

When I visited Roxanne Lowit’s Kips Bay studio this week, I was among the very few to have a sneak preview of her forthcoming magnum opus, Backstage Dior. That isn’t a phrase that I typically throw around, especially when it comes to monograph art books. That being said, this book is not only an awe-inspiring look at John Galliano’s adroit couture and Lowit’s progressive photography, but also a very precise blueprint for publishers as to how future art/fashion/photography books should be crafted.

Photo by Roxanne Lowit in Backstage Dior, 2009

Backstage Dior, 2009 Photo by Roxanne Lowit

The thick pages turn and the images jump off the page; the dynamic hues staging a full-on attack of the senses. In-your-face provocative imagery sets the tone for this look back into the last ten years of Galliano’s reign at Dior as creative director. Since the beginning, Roxanne Lowit has been there to document his ascension into the annals of the most prolific designers of the 20th and 21st centuries. The 248-page book offers readers an intimate look behind the curtains of his exclusive shows where few have been before. Models, makeup artists, stylists, and Galliano himself are among the lucky few to have seen what this books brings to life: a dreamlike world of wearable art being displayed on vivacious human canvases. Her collection of candid and personable photographs convey the electricity of fashion’s most astonishing spectacle.

Photo by Roxanne Lowit in Backstage Dior, 2009

Backstage Dior, 2009 Photo by Roxanne Lowit

Few books come to mind that can offer even a glimpse of the light this project sheds on the worlds of fashion and photography. The brilliant use of empty, black pages is a technique that mirrors the photographer’s and designer’s personalities as artists and also gives the reader a moment of calm from the flashing of bright colors that fills nearly every page. Not since Tom Ford’s 2008 Rizzoli monograph has a major publishing house attempted this, sans Abrams’ unsuccessful attempt with 2009’s  Avedon Fashion, which employs white endpages. Leave it to Galliano and Lowit to do it right. The mix of black and white and color photography is something that Roxanne has been doing for the length of her career, and was something Warhol himself once told her he admired about her work.

Photo by Roxanne Lowit in Backstage Dior, 2009

Backstage Dior, 2009 Photo by Roxanne Lowit

With forewords by John Galliano and Suzy Menkes, as well as texts by Simon Doonan, Valerie Steele, and Jean-Jacques Naudet.

Mil Besos: Andalusian Dance Worth a Thousand Kisses

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

By JRS

One of the images in Ruven Afanador's new book "Mil Besos"

One of the images in Ruven Afanador's new book, "Mil Besos"

In his newest book that acts as a very fitting homage to the women of flamenco, Colombian-born photographer Ruven Afanador continues to do what he has done his entire career: capturing the raw and impassioned beauty of his polished and couture-laden subjects. It’s being called his most powerful work yet and his models, eyes rimmed in inky kohl and preening for the camera in Dolce and Gabbana, Versace, and Galliano, radiate under the intense Andalusian sun.

With an introduction by the elusive John Galliano himself and pieces by Iman and Diane Von Furstenberg, this is a staple for any coffee table already festooned with Avedon, Bassman, or Newton.

Back From A Fall/Winter 2009 Hiatus: Russian Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2009/2010

Friday, October 16th, 2009

By JRS

Following a disappointing cancellation of its Fall/Winter2009/2010 fashion week this past March, Russian Fashion Week is back in full swing for the Spring/Summer season.

The past four seasons have established it as a regular entry in the world fashion calendar next to national fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, London, NY.  Russian Fashion Week which is held in Moscow twice per year, in April and October, covers all of the former Soviet Union, the so-called Russian-speaking territory. The RFW basics are Russian designers, but every season sees the best designers from former Soviet republics: Ukraine, Byelorussia, Lithuania, Kazakhstan, Georgia, etc.

Every season, the RFW Organizing Committee studies over 100 entries but chooses only the best collections for the RFW runways. Russian Fashion Week has always cooperated with fashion weeks from around the World.  As a result RFW has its continues cooperation with Milan Fashion Week and CNMI and for the past year started cooperation with fashion weeks in China, Greece, South Africa, Canada, Mexico, Portugal, etc.  International Days which are held in the frames of RFW on a regular basis have already presented Spanish, UK, Italian and American designers to Russian publicity.

A model presents a creation by the Russian fashion house "Fresh Art" during a show at the Russian Fashion Week in a night club in Moscow

A model presents a creation by the Russian fashion house "Fresh Art" during a show at the Russian Fashion Week in a night club in Moscow

Russian Fashion Week has joint ventures with the world’s largest fashion institutions. These collaborations result in national designer days during RFW’s biannual events. In the fall of 2004, “British Day” was held, featuring Matthew Williamson, Sophia Kokosalaki, Jenny Packham and other top English designers. British Day was organized with the British Fashion Council and London Fashion Week, and was so successful, that several British designers participating in RFW’s Fall-Winter 2005 event applied for the following RFW seasons. In Spring 2005, Russian Fashion Week invited Spanish designers Konrad Muhr, Alma Aguilar, Devota& Lomba, Isabel de Pedro, Armand Basi  and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. The Spanish Day was run in conjunction with the Spanish Foreign Trade Institute and Spanish Fashion Designers’ Association. In Autumn 2005, in October, the RFW hosted the Italian Day supported by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Mario Boselli, Camera Nazionale’s President and RFW Producer General Alexander Shumsky, announced the Italy and Russia’s major fashion weeks have become long-term promotional partners.

Italian Day has featured top designers like Romeo Gigli, Guerriero, Exte’, La Perla, and Pollini by Rifat Ozbek, and Milan Fashion Week will showcase Russia’s top designers. RFW spring-summer 2007 season International Day was dedicated to the US. American Designers Baby Phat, Laundry by Shelli Segal and Rebecca Taylor presented their summer 2007 collections in the frames of American Day on RFW. Later on Chinese Day and another Spanish Day were held in frames of RFW. Russian Fashion Week International Cooperation with other countries will lead to more International Days.

RFW also undertakes international cooperation activities worldwide. RFW steps abroad started in September 2005, when, following the partnership agreement between RFW and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, RFW designers were presented at RFW stand at Milano Moda Donna. In September 2006 a collective show of 3 top RFW designers was successfully held at Milano Moda Donna s/s 2007. In November 2006 China Fashion Week hosted the Russia Day showcasing 5 top RFW designers’ s/s 2007 collections. Later on multiple shows of RFW designers were successfully held at L’Oreal Fashion Week (Canada), Lisbon Fashion Week (Portugal), Athens Exclusive Designers Week (Greece), Fashion Forward (Athens), Nokia Cape Town Fashion Week (South Africa). More shows worldwide are scheduled for the near future, including one at Malaysia International Fashion Week in November 2008.

Fashion Week in Moscow dates back to 1994.  For the first ten years, this event was concentrated on the presentation of haute couture collections from Russian designers and leading fashion houses. After 2003, however, Fashion Week has changed its format and now takes place twice a year (at the end of March and October) and involves the presentation of prêt-a-porter clothes.

The foundation of this new format is based on prêt-a-porter clothes and prêt-a-porter de luxe collections. The main objectives of Fashion Week in Moscow, however, continue to be the development of the Russian fashion industry, the promotion of Russian designers, and the presentation of the best examples from world fashion on the runway.

Moscow’s stage for this event has been set in the Congress Hall of Moscow’s World Trade Center. The shows will commence October 17th and continue until the 24th.